I’m so excited to be sharing one of my favorite skirt styles with you, the quarter circle skirt. It’s feminine and flattering on any body type so join me and make yourself one (or a few) today!
I’m doing 3 tutorials on different ways to make the quarter circle skirt. This is the 2nd of the series which uses a woven fabric and an invisible zipper. The FREE printable template is included below. If you haven’t tried the 1st woven pull up skirt version, check it out here!
I love this zippered version so much that I’ve made 2 already, both in linen. And since they’re both midi-length, I’ve been able to wear them to meetings and school events.
A Few Things To Grab:
- Woven fabric of choice – 1 ~ 4 yards (Based on skirt’s length)
- 9” Invisible zipper
- Matching thread
- Serger (optional)
- Print template *here
Which Skirt Length?
Here is a length chart to help you get started. I’m 5’4” and my midi skirt length was 26”.
- Mini 14”-17” ~ Mid-thigh hemline.
- Midi 26” – 29” ~ Mid-shin hemline.
- Maxi 38” – 41” ~ Ankle-length hemline.
1.CHOOSING A SIZE – Since this version will be made in woven, we will need to add wearing ease. Add about 1”-1.5” to your waist measurement and use that new measurement for the skirt template.
2. ADD SEAM & HEM ALLOWANCE – For the SKIRT, I suggest a 1/2” seam allowance for the center back in order to attach the zipper. I added 3/8” seam allowance for the waist and 1/2” for the hem. Also, add seam allowance to your WAISTBAND. The amount you add to the waistband’s ends should be the same as on the skirt’s center back.
3. WAISTBAND – Cut your waistband 2” in width and the length should be the same as the size you are using on the template. Cut your FACING a tad smaller than your waistband. Place the “rough” side of the facing to the wrong side of the waistband and press iron, don’t drag it.
4. FRONT WAIST DROP – I like the front of my waistline to be lower than the back because it makes room for my bum and creates an even hemline. Fold the skirt in half and measure down 1/2” from the raw edge. Curve and blend to the halfway point of the fold and cut off the excess piece.
5. SEW THE WAISTBAND – Wrong sides together, fold and press the waistband lengthwise. Pin it on the right side of the skirt, sew, and finish the raw edges. Press the seam allowance down.
6. FINISH THE CENTER BACK SEAMS – Overlock, zig zag, or a stitch of your choice to finish the raw center back edges, from top of the waistband to the them.
7. INSTALLING THE INVISIBLE ZIPPER – a)Iron your zipper along the fabric part so that it’s nice and flat.
b) Fold the zipper tapes down toward the wrong side and either stitch or use fabric glue to keep them in place. Skip this step if you have the correct length of zipper: Sew straight across the zipper at the desired length and then cut about 1” away from the new sewn end.
c) Place center backs side by side and mark on both sides the end of the zipper tape – this will help keep everything lined up, like the waist seam, after sewing.
d) Place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the skirt along the center back. I don’t like pinning the zipper because that distorts my fabric so I always use a bit of washable glue to keep the zipper in place. I also used the INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT from Distinctive. I love this brand so much! Stop sewing about 1/4” from the zipper head.
e) To sew the other side, close the zipper and keep the right sides of the zipper tape and the skirt together with some washable glue or pin.
f) Begin sewing from the top of the waistband and stop 1/4” from the zipper head. I use my seam ripper to gently roll the zipper teeth away.
8. CLOSING THE CENTER BACK – With fabrics right sides together, sew the center back seam as usual. When I was in design school, I desperately tried to continue sewing from the end of the zipper seam. It was never straight down and when I turned the skirt right side out, there would be an ugly pinch at that spot. That was then… Now, I always start/stop the center back seam 1/4” away from the zipper seam.
See, no ugly pinch! Just a beautiful flat seam.
9. HEM THE SKIRT – Sew a 1/4” fold line and then fold up 1/4” twice towards the wrong side of the skirt. Top stitch close to the fold.
I love how the quarter circle skirts turned out! You look so good in them.
I’m just a bit confused about the pattern – looking at the placement on the fabric I understand where you’ve placed the pattern, but how do you work out the waist measurement?
Looking at the pattern on the fabric, it looks like the skirt will be too short and the waist too large. Does that make sense?
Thanks so much.
Thank you! This is one of my favorite skirt patterns!
Regarding the waist measurement on the template – your waist measurement + 1″~1.5″ (waist ease) = the line you should choose on the template. Then you measurement the desired skirt length from the line you’ve chosen.
My waist is 25″ and I added 1″ for ease so the curved line I choose on the template was 26″. I wanted a midi so I measured 26″ from the 26″ curved line on the template.
I hope that make sense. If you’re still having issues regarding the waist and length measuring steps, please let me know and I will add another image to illustrate this step further.
Happy Sewing! 🙂
I know it has been a long time since you have posted this. However, I am wondering about the pattern. It seems a bit confusing. How would you cut this on fabric. Can you please tell me exactly how you measured this fabric? Thanks!
I noticed that a lot of beginner sewists were getting confused with folding the fabric for cutting circle skirts so I tried something different in tutorial without any folding. The entire skirt pattern is cut with the fabric laid out flat. Step 1’s photo shows the selvage on both sides of the fabric as it is laid flat. The line that you choose on the template will be your waist measurement plus how much ease you want. There is no side seam, only 1 back seam where you will join to make the skirt and also attach your zipper. I added the optional side seam line for larger sizes as they won’t fit on the fabric (depending on the length of skirt) so it can be cut into 2 pieces (front and back). I hope that makes sense. I will add a Youtube tutorial later and include the link here.
How do I figure out where to cut the bottom? Do I measure from one point?
You measure from the waistline. Measure your waist and add 1″-1.5″ ease, the sum of that would be the number you find on the template. If you want your skirt be 25″ long, then you would use a yardstick or a tape measure and measure out 25″ from the chosen line on the template. Hope that helps. Happy sewing!
I cant seem to download the pattern
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I like this style skirt a lot. I am a beginner and have arthritis/RA. Can you show me how to make this skirt with flat waist band and elastic in the back.
I’m so glad to hear from a fellow sewing enthusiast who also has RA. I will be sure to add that to add the flat front waist and elastic band to my tutorial plans for the future. Meanwhile, stay strong and keep sewing! 🙂