Scoop Neck T-Shirt – Free Pattern & Tutorial

I love simple sewing projects that need little to no deciphering, especially during summer vacation when I am helping Logan with his summer studies and also trying to sew at the same time. 

I made this scoop neck t-shirt pattern for my mother who has keloid on her neck and chest from multiple thyroid surgeries. Keloids are raised scars that continue to grow even after the original injured skin has healed. They’re not harmful or contagious, but can cause pain, itchiness, or discomfort. Since one of my mother’s keloids is right on her chest, she prefers clothing with necklines that do not rub against and irritate the tender scar. So this is her favorite summer pattern – comfy to wear and easy to pair with a variety of bottoms!

If you do make this t-shirt, be sure to tag me on Instagram @sew_zune or post on the Zune’s Sewing Therapy Facebook. I’d love to see your finished project! 

Ok, let’s begin…

A FEW THINGS TO GRAB:

  • Knit Fabric – 1 yard (I used a Rayon Jersey Knit)
  • Stay Tape or DIY Stay Tape
  • Ball point needle – Recommended, but some knits will work with Universal needles as well
  • Twin Stretch Needle – Optional
  • Print Pattern – This pattern is free to all subscribers. Check both your inbox and junk folders for the confirmation email. Print from a laptop or computer.

*This pattern is a SIZE M and DOES NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES.

1.PRINT & ASSEMBLE THE PATTERN – Be sure to choose “Do Not Scale” on your printer setting. The first page has a 2” test square. After putting the pattern together, add your desired seam allowances.

*SLEEVE HEM TIP- Fold the hem up and then cut out the underarm. Your hem will now be shaped like the underarm seam.

2. APPLYING STAY TAPE – I highly recommend using stay tape on areas like the shoulders and neckline, especially if your fabric is lightweight. You definitely don’t want any droopiness on the neckline!  You can buy them ready made or make your own from fusible knit interfacing. Simply cut the strips diagonally from the selvage 1/8” larger than your seam.

3. SEW THE SHOULDERS – Use a serger or a regular sewing machine. I did a double stitch on my Janome, which is a smaller zig zag to sew the seams and then a larger zig zag to keep the raw edge from curling.

4. SEWING THE NECKBAND – Cut out the neckband crossgrain. My strip is 1 1/2” wide, which includes 2 1/4” seam allowances. After folding and sewing, my finished neckband measures 1/2”.

I like this *no-math neckband method to find the length that I need. I can pin and see how the neckband will look on the neckline, that way I don’t have to worry about the band being too short or long.

Sew the neckband into a loop, press the seam allowance open, and then fold it lengthwise. Divide both the neckband and neckline of the t-shirt into quarters. 

Pin the folded neckband on the right side of the neckline, and sew with a small zig zag stitch. 

To EDGESTITCH, you can use a very small zig zag stitch or a wide straight stitch. I sewed a wide straight stitch 1/8” from the seam.

5. SLEEVES –  Pin the sleeve along the armhole and sew with a double stitch – small zig zag and then a wider zig zag.

6. SIDE SEAM –  Place fabrics right sides together, and sew a double stitch along the underarm seam and side seam.

7. HEMMING –  Finish the sleeve hems and the bodice hem with TWIN STRETCH NEEDLES or a small zig zag stitch if you don’t have any on hand. If you’re using twin needles, DON’T BACKSTITCH! Use a hand sewing needle to bring the 4 threads on the right side of the t-shirt to the wrong side, then tie all 6 threads into a knot and clip.

And that’s it! Thanks for sewing with me! 🙂

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