An easy step-by-step tutorial on how to sew a classic waistband with interfacing and an overlap. My trick to getting the waistband looking sharp and neat is to use washable glue or an iron-on adhesive to hold the waistband in place before topstitching. This is how I sewed the Agnes A-line skirt, but you can use this same waistband sewing technique on ANY skirt or pants.
If you’ve just come from the zipper installation tutorial, you will want to stitch, finish, and press your skirt’s side seams before moving onto the waistband.
See it in action! Watch the video tutorial.
Ok, let’s make a waistband!
Make sure to transfer all the notches from the pattern onto your waistband. The Agnes skirt has a 2”overlap extension so the notch that’s 2” from one end marks both the center back as well as the beginning of the overlap.
Optional – Sew an easing stitch within the skirt waist seam allowance. Leave a long tail of thread so that you can easily pull it to match the skirt’s curved to the waistband.
1.Cut out the waistband and apply interfacing to the WRONG side. Press under 3/8” (or whatever your seam allowance is) on the long UN-NOTCHED edge. Also press the ends under 3/8”. Tip – Use washable glue or iron-on adhesive, like HeatnBond, to press under the edges.
2.Un-zip the zipper. With RIGHT sides together, pin the NOTCHED edge of the waistband to the skirt, matching the notches for the side seams and center back overlap, stitch together. Then, cut off the excess zipper.
3.Press the waistband and the seam allowance up.
4.Fold the waistband down toward the inside of the skirt. Hand-sew or machine-stitch the folded-under edge over the seam. Continuing along the overlap.
5.Lastly, hand-sew the hook and bar to the waistband and you’re done!