Tutorial: Gaping Adjustment to Pattern and Finished Garment

Whether you’re sewing a bikini, bralette, or a triangle cup top, you may encounter some gaping issues. Gaping problems could be due to the cup size, garment style, or your breasts’ shape. Don’t worry! Here, I’ll show you how to make some easy adjustments to your pattern or finished garment for a nicely fitted look.

Let’s transform an old t-shirt into something fresh & fun!
*Link will be added here later.

I’ve worn heavily padded push up bras for so long that I forgot how lacking I was in that region of my body. So needless to say when I recently did a refashion tutorial transforming an old t-shirt into a halter crop top with a triangle cup style, I ended up facing some ugly gaping problems!


Let’s work with a full pattern piece. The adjustment will be made on one side only, the SIDESEAM side. If your adjustment is less than 1/2”, you can make just one dart to slash and close. 

However, if the amount to be adjusted is more than 1/2”, you can make a few equally-sized darts to slash and close. Be sure to true the seams afterwards and then add your seam allowance.


With your seam ripper, remove stitches from the side seam to halfway of the cup. Mark the amount to be adjusted from the raw edge and then curve smoothly towards the cup’s midpoint. Cut off the excess fabric and restitch the cup. 

I hope this tutorial was easy to follow! If you have any questions or comments about any of the steps, be sure to write them below. Sew long and be happy! 🙂

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