Quarter Circle Skirt (Easy Pull Up Version) – FREE TEMPLATE & TUTORIAL

My Outfit:
DIY Quarter Circle Skirt
DIY Ruched Tank Top
Do you want to make yourself a ruched top too? I’ll include a how-to link here later!

Every summer I find myself alternating between shorts and cropped jeans, so at the beginning of this year I promised myself that I would break my own boring tradition by adding more fun, flirty skirts to my wardrobe! I decided to go for the quarter circle style which is very much like the A-line skirt – it has a fitted top and a flared bottom. It’s truly a timeless wardrobe staple that flatters women of any age, size, or body shape. Trust me, you just can’t wrong with this style!

I’ll be posting a few tutorials on different variations of the quarter circle skirt made in knits and woven. Let’s start off the series with an elastic waist pull up version made in woven. This skirt was really easy on my swollen fingers and I was able to dress myself quickly with no issues before running out to do errands. Another thing I love about the quarter circle skirt is that it doesn’t use as much fabric as the full or half circle skirts. Winning! 

Also, you can share pictures of your finished quarter circle skirt on the Zune’s Sewing Therapy Facebook or tag @sew_zune on Instagram. I’d love to see how you style it!

Here’s how to make it…

A Few Things To Grab:

Woven fabric of choice – 1 ~ 4 yards (Depending on skirt’s length)

Matching thread

1” Elastic 

Print template here

Which Skirt Length?

Here is a length chart to help you get started but you may have to adjust the numbers below based on your height. *I take my skirt length measurement by holding the measuring tape at my waist and letting it fall over my buttocks. 

Mini 14”-17” ~ Mid-thigh hemline.

Midi 26” – 29” ~ Mid-shin hemline. 

Maxi 38” – 41” ~ Ankle-length hemline.

1. Since this is a pull up style, we will be using the hip measurement for the skirt’s waist. Add 1/2”~2” (let me know if these measurements work) to your hip measurement so that it slips comfortably over the hips. Find that number line on the template and add 1/4” seam allowance to the waist. *The amount of gathers at the waist will depend on your waist-hips ratio and how much ease you add to the hips. My hips are 10” wider than my waist and I added a 2” ease so my skirt’s waist was 1.5x larger than my actual waist hence the waistband looking so gathered. 

2. Add seam allowance to both ends of the template if you have enough fabric to cut the skirt in one whole piece.  If you don’t,  make a separate front and back panel by cutting along the Optional Side Seam and adding seam allowance to that line.

3. Place the template on the fabric and measure from the waist line the desired length plus 1/2” hem allowance. 

4. I like the skirt’s back to be longer than the front so that when the fabric goes over the buttocks, it won’t make the hem appear shorter in the back and longer in the front thus creating this weird hi-lo effect. So to “even” out the hemline, fold the skirt or front panel in half and measure 1/2” down from the raw edge. Blend it towards the center point of the folded skirt and then cut off the excess piece.

5. With right sides together, sew all the side seams of the skirt and finish the edges.

6. Cut the waistband crossgrain 3 3/4” x the line you used plus 1/2” seam allowance to sew the waistband into a loop. My waistband measured 3 3/4” x 37 1/2”.

7. Sew the waistband ends with a 1/4” seam allowance and press open. Pin the right side of the waistband to the right side of the skirt’s waist and sew them together with a 1/4”. Press the seam up.

8. Sew a 1/4” guide line from the raw edge of the waistband and press under. Bring the folded guide line to the waist seam. Edgestitch along the fold leaving about 2” open to insert the elastic.

9. Use a safety pin to insert the elastic into the casing. If you’re unsure about how much elastic to cut, try on the skirt inside out and gently pull on the elastic, overlap 1/2”, and use a safety pin to make a temporary elastic loop. Adjust the length until you feel comfortable and mark on the elastic. Then cut the desired length, overlap the ends 1/2”, and sew with a wide zig zag stitch. My waist is 24 1/2” and my elastic band was 22”. Close the casing by sewing near the fold.

10. Most likely your elastic will twist in the casing, like mine did here. To avoid that, you can use a wide straight stitch or zig zag along the elastic while holding the waistband taut. Or you can use a wide straight stitch and sew the elastic to the casing vertically from each side seam. 

11. Sew a 1/4” guide line from the raw edge. Press up from that guide line, fold over another 1/4”, and edge-stitch. 

You may also like

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *