I’m so excited to be sharing one of my favorite skirt styles with you, the quarter circle skirt. It’s feminine and flattering on any body type so join me and make yourself one (or a few) today!
I’m doing 3 tutorials on different ways to make the quarter circle skirt. This is the 2nd of the series which uses a woven fabric and an invisible zipper. The FREE printable template is included below. If you haven’t tried the 1st woven pull up skirt version, check it out here!
I love this zippered version so much that I’ve made 2 already, both in linen. And since they’re both midi-length, I’ve been able to wear them to meetings and school events.
A Few Things To Grab:
- Woven fabric of choice – 1 ~ 4 yards (Based on skirt’s length)
- 9” Invisible zipper
- Matching thread
- Serger (optional)
- Print template *here
Which Skirt Length?
Here is a length chart to help you get started. I’m 5’4” and my midi skirt length was 26”.
- Mini 14”-17” ~ Mid-thigh hemline.
- Midi 26” – 29” ~ Mid-shin hemline.
- Maxi 38” – 41” ~ Ankle-length hemline.
1.CHOOSING A SIZE – Since this version will be made in woven, we will need to add wearing ease. Add about 1”-1.5” to your waist measurement and use that new measurement for the skirt template.
2. ADD SEAM & HEM ALLOWANCE – For the SKIRT, I suggest a 1/2” seam allowance for the center back in order to attach the zipper. I added 3/8” seam allowance for the waist and 1/2” for the hem. Also, add seam allowance to your WAISTBAND. The amount you add to the waistband’s ends should be the same as on the skirt’s center back.
3. WAISTBAND – Cut your waistband 2” in width and the length should be the same as the size you are using on the template. Cut your FACING a tad smaller than your waistband. Place the “rough” side of the facing to the wrong side of the waistband and press iron, don’t drag it.
4. FRONT WAIST DROP – I like the front of my waistline to be lower than the back because it makes room for my bum and creates an even hemline. Fold the skirt in half and measure down 1/2” from the raw edge. Curve and blend to the halfway point of the fold and cut off the excess piece.
5. SEW THE WAISTBAND – Wrong sides together, fold and press the waistband lengthwise. Pin it on the right side of the skirt, sew, and finish the raw edges. Press the seam allowance down.
6. FINISH THE CENTER BACK SEAMS – Overlock, zig zag, or a stitch of your choice to finish the raw center back edges, from top of the waistband to the them.
7. INSTALLING THE INVISIBLE ZIPPER – a)Iron your zipper along the fabric part so that it’s nice and flat.
b) Fold the zipper tapes down toward the wrong side and either stitch or use fabric glue to keep them in place. Skip this step if you have the correct length of zipper: Sew straight across the zipper at the desired length and then cut about 1” away from the new sewn end.
c) Place center backs side by side and mark on both sides the end of the zipper tape – this will help keep everything lined up, like the waist seam, after sewing.
d) Place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the skirt along the center back. I don’t like pinning the zipper because that distorts my fabric so I always use a bit of washable glue to keep the zipper in place. I also used the INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT from Distinctive. I love this brand so much! Stop sewing about 1/4” from the zipper head.
e) To sew the other side, close the zipper and keep the right sides of the zipper tape and the skirt together with some washable glue or pin.
f) Begin sewing from the top of the waistband and stop 1/4” from the zipper head. I use my seam ripper to gently roll the zipper teeth away.
8. CLOSING THE CENTER BACK – With fabrics right sides together, sew the center back seam as usual. When I was in design school, I desperately tried to continue sewing from the end of the zipper seam. It was never straight down and when I turned the skirt right side out, there would be an ugly pinch at that spot. That was then… Now, I always start/stop the center back seam 1/4” away from the zipper seam.
See, no ugly pinch! Just a beautiful flat seam.
9. HEM THE SKIRT – Sew a 1/4” fold line and then fold up 1/4” twice towards the wrong side of the skirt. Top stitch close to the fold.